How to Install Skirting Boards
For MDF/softwood skirting. Prime/seal all cut edges (especially MDF). For tight internal corners, use a coped joint.
1) Prepare & Plan
- Fit after floors; walls painted to undercoat.
- Mark studs (stud walls) or set plug points (masonry).
- Plan long runs and any scarf joints over studs.
2) Straight Runs
- Measure wall; square cut ends that meet architraves.
- Leave 1–2 mm movement at ends; caulk later.
- MDF: prime/seal all cut edges before fixing.
3) Internal Corners (Coped)
- Run first piece tight into the corner.
- Mitre the second at 45° to reveal the profile.
- Cope along the profile; back-cut ~5° for a tight face.
- Test fit; tweak with rasp/block plane. Prime cut MDF.
4) External Corners (Mitre)
- Check angle (not all corners are 90°).
- Cut matching mitres; glue faces; pin to hold.
- Add a short return on exposed ends for protection.
5) Fix to Wall
- Masonry: Grab adhesive + occasional plugs/screws or lost-head nails.
- Stud: Pin into studs (50–65 mm pins). Add adhesive for contact.
- Pack out hollows; keep the top line straight for neat caulking.
6) Fill, Caulk & Paint
- Fill pin holes/joints; sand smooth.
- Caulk along the top edge and corners; smooth immediately.
- MDF: spot-prime filled/cut areas; apply top coats.
- Use a scarf joint (45°) over a stud on long runs.
- Keep the top edge level; scribe the bottom to the floor.
- Prime MDF cuts before fitting for faster finishing.
- Gap at top: wall uneven — add adhesive, pin, then caulk.
- Open internal corner: re-cope; small back-cut helps.
- Visible long joint: replace butt with scarf over a stud.
Safety: Wear eye/ear protection; use dust extraction when cutting MDF. Detect pipes/cables before drilling. Note: Guidance is general; site conditions vary. Always follow manufacturer instructions and local requirements.